The decision to purchase and potentially restore a classic Mustang can give rise to both great enthusiasm and understandable trepidation. Although many classic Mustangs are readily available for purchase, how can you know whether you are getting a good deal for a quality car or are unknowingly buying somebody's problem? The following discussion will give you the knowledge and confidence you need to select a suitable Mustang for your budget.
Instructions
1 Inspect the vehicle's identification tag. One of the most important steps to take when considering whether to buy a particular classic Mustang is to inspect the factory identification tag, which reveals the car's body style, exterior paint color, interior trim color, manufacturing date, axle ratio and the transmission and engine types it was originally equipped with. The actual tag is coded with a series of numbers and letters. A description of the actual codes is outside the scope of this article, but the information is readily available in most Mustang restoration guides and also on the Internet. Once the tag has been decoded, you can then verify whether the car has been modified, which can be a significant factor in your decision whether to purchase it.
2 Determine whether car is original or modified. As a general rule, an original car is worth more than a car that has been modified. Additionally, a car that is original is usually much easier to restore than one with extensive modifications.
Some minor modifications are relatively easy to remedy, such as custom wheels, while others can be very difficult and expensive to rectify. For example, a sunroof will significantly diminish the value of the car and is a very expensive fix. Although not as radical, the radio port on 1965 to 1966 Mustangs is commonly cut and expanded to fit aftermarket radios. Unlike 1967 to 1968 Mustangs, the radio in the earlier models bolts directly to the dash. Repair panels are available but can be challenging to install for an inexperienced welder.
Other modifications that can be expensive to repair include wheel flares, in which the fender lips around the tires have been expanded to allow wider tires, and aftermarket hood pins and hood scoops. Also look for any trim that has been removed and the mounting holes filled in.
3 Check for rust. Few things can destroy a car as extensively as rust, colloquially referred to as "car cancer." It is especially important to note that the expense of repairing a car with considerable rust damage can easily exceed the value of the car once restored. A careful buyer should therefore always be on the lookout for signs of rust damage. Be sure to check for rust bubbles, which develop when rust expands under paint. The lower edges of the doors are common areas for rust bubbles to develop.
4 Inspect the cowl. The cowl is the slotted area between the front windshield and the hood. The slots allow fresh air to enter the vehicle. When water passes through these slots, the water drains out underneath the fenders through a series of channels that cannot be seen unless the top of the cowl is removed.
To check the structural integrity of the cowl, use a garden hose to pour water into both sides of the cowl. Look inside the car underneath both the driver and passenger sides of the dashboard for leaks. If water enters the vehicle though these areas, the cowl has almost certainly rusted out. Additionally, a rusted cowl can also lead to rusted floor pans.
5 Inspect the floor pans. Floor pans are a common area for rust and can be an expensive repair. Rusted floor pans can also be symptomatic of other problems such as a rusted cowl or rotted weather-stripping. The best way to check the condition of the floor pans is to remove the carpeting from the car. However, an owner interested in selling the car is likely to be quite reluctant to allow this. There are other ways to get an idea of the condition of the floor pans. Use an ice pick, awl or Phillips head screwdriver to try to poke through the floor pans. Pay particular attention to under the pedals and under the emergency brake lever on the driver side. Don't forget to check the pans under the rear seat as well.
6 Inspect the trunk area. An inspection of the area inside the trunk can often reveal a litany of problems, all of which may lead to expensive repairs. The first thing to check inside the trunk is whether the gas tank rests properly in its base. If not, this could be caused by something as minor as faulty installation or as serious as a rear-end collision. The second thing to check inside the trunk are the two trunk floor extension pieces. There should be no crimping of metal here. Be sure to examine the area of these pieces that meet the inside of the rear quarter panels.
7 Inspect the frame. A bent frame is problem that may be significant enough to pass on the particular car you are considering purchasing. The first way is to visually inspect the frame for any apparent abnormalities. Do portions of the frame rails appear twisted? Are there creases or dents in one side of the frame rail that do not exist on the opposite side of that particular frame rail? Secondly, check whether the body panels line up with each other. Do the lines of the door match up with the lines of the quarter panel? Does the trunk lid close easily? Is there a larger gap on one side of the trunk lid than the other when the trunk lid is closed? Failure of the body panels to line up with each other could be merely an adjustment problem, or it could indicate a problem with the frame. Be careful here.
8 Look for body filler. Body filler, commonly referred to as Bondo, is an indispensable tool in the final stages of body panel repair. Used properly, body filler can last for many years and is practically undetectable to the naked eye once painted. Unfortunately, its effectiveness and low cost often result in disaster due to overuse and improper application.
The best way to find filler on a painted car is by placing a magnet over different areas of the car. Because body filler is not metal, it will not attract the magnet. If body filler has been used over metal (as opposed to filling a large hole), the pull of the magnet should be less than similar areas of the car.
9 Inspect the wheelhouses. A look at the wheelhouses can expose a host of problems and should not be overlooked. Pay particular attention to the rear wheelhouses, which can expose traction bars, rust and body filler used around the wheel-opening lip. If the owner will allow you, remove the rear wheels for this inspection.
10 Ensure the interior components are correct. You should not take for granted that the interior of the car you are interested in purchasing is the correct interior for that particular car. Due to the similarities between years (1965-1966 models, 1967-1968 models, etc.), interior pieces can be easily swapped. Several Mustang guides have detailed pictures of the different interiors available for each year and should be consulted before you purchase a Mustang.
